For the different batteries, I can't give exact instructions on how you to take it apart involved mine really annoying, Hexagon screws that refused to budge then I realized they were ... Hey this is a learning experience so I got a 10 bit and picked apart.
You should be allowed both halves bouncy do with the case, the cells and possibly some fathers.
Locate your anode - this be is usually white or if you have forgotten your phone setup, which is the positive pole is red in my battery there was a white cable is for the anode and a common cathode (a record which currently connects.. all cells ' filaments).
Drill a hole in the side of the battery enclosure so that it is convenient to go to a string.
Run the wires of the quick release through the hole. It does not matter, which you use as long as you can to stop the opposite a use for the wall unit. For my example I have used the female so that the wall unit are male, so on and so forth.
(Wire positive (red or white), to positive and negative (black) to negative). Solder the cables and make sure not to damage the cell.
Put the battery back together. You are likely to force it a bit to the wires in the casing fit. In addition to ensure authorities hold back feathers or things, the Akkuverriegelung on the tool. I QuikGrips with you keep them again together, the screws while putting in.
Now to the power change cube to attach the battery. Since you will be a little more power drawing, you must be able to replace the original cable. Mine was mysteriously cut a while back, so I used the opportunity, upgrade an extension cord.
Cut the power cubes from the part of the clips on the battery. If you are planning to replace the cable, about 1.5 leave "on the power cube end. ' Otherwise cut 1.5 "from the battery clip and continue with the soldering of quick couplings.
If you want to replace the cable, cut it to the length of the string you want. Over two meters is good for most applications. At each end, a cut to 3 "from the end, so that you open to the outside event such as a pea pod." Pull out the cable and cut the ground if there is one. Cut 1.5 "away from the black and white wires and tapes of last half inch." "You are using two 1, 5-allowed should be" deducted wires with the last third.
Strip a half an inch of the wires of the power die, and solder them to those of the cable. Do the same for the quick coupling (male) at the other end of the cable. Wrap each of the inner wires with adhesive tape, tuck it inside the cable, and band around the.
If you can still have the battery clip disconnect lot on a (female) quickly so that you modified with the charger as is done by insertion of clips into the wall unit.
Because quick couplings are usually in pairs, you may have male adapter a remnant. You can use them as auxiliary charger, say if wanted from a lead acid battery to load, or zap it set back to you with a welder to the cells.
The battery and the charger everything should now. NiCd batteries are a pain in the ass sometimes because of the dendrites and free memory and stupid stuff like that, I believe the best way to use this system, the battery is full , then you use it with the string that most of the time. The wall unit as have not the capability, a power tool by itself runs, but the fully charged battery is there additional PEP. In use, the Hitachi battery is recharged drills, so effective. The tool with full force that all the time when you started non-stop for a long time, it will run down, also is natural, that because some of the components, you could overheat you this a bad idea.
Hitachi power tool batteries e.g. Hitachi EB9 battery, Hitachi EB 1830HL battery, Hitachi BCL 1415 battery, Hitachi EBM 1830 battery.
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